Soon after we land at San Salvador and clear immigration and customs, we go to Olacuilta, a famous pupuseria, to eat and begin to enter the culture. Pupusa is the favorite food of the country, although many cannot afford it. It starts like a tortilla but has other stuff put in it-often beans and cheese. They are fried on a hot flat grill, often turned by hand when no spatula is available. This stop is a tradition but depends on how soon we get away from the airport.